UltimateCity Guide Belgrade
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Stories from Belgrade, Serbia

Every story, long read and guide in the ULTIMATE Belgrade City Guide, in one place.

Zemun on the Danube

Belgrade’s old Habsburg town across the river: red roofs and Baroque churches, Gardoš Tower above the rooftops and a long Danube quay of fish restaurants, swans and moored boats.

Zemun's red roofs, the church tower and the Danube from GardošOur ten favouritesTen of the best in ZemunMarket, Gardoš, the quay, the opera and the tablesSwans on the Danube at the Zemun QuaySummerSummer on the Zemun QuaySplavovi, swans and sunsetsBoats moored on the Danube at the Zemun Quay at sunset, with a heron on a mooring lineEatFish on the DanubeRiblja čorba and the restaurants of the quayThe clock and Baroque spire of St Nicholas’ Church in ZemunThe back storyZemun’s frontier storyThe 1730 quarantine, the hospital and the parkSlobodan “Boba” Bibić with his daughter, the artist Jelena Bibić, at Gardoš Tower in ZemunCultural catalystsCelebrating Slobodan “Boba” Bibić1946–2022: Zemun’s architect, photographer and videographer

Our advice

Take the riverside path to Zemun in the late afternoon: the market in the morning, Gardoš for sunset, fish soup by the Danube as the lights come on.

  1. ArtZemun in paintThe town through Jelena Bibić’s brush

Awareness

Belgrade's street dogs and cats

Who to call for an animal in trouble, where to meet dogs looking for a home, and the simple ways you can help, even on a short visit. How you can help

New developments: Belgrade is changing

A city reinventing itself for the 21st century: a new district on the Sava, an opera house in the old fair, a green bridge for walkers, the rebirth of Hotel Jugoslavija and EXPO 2027. See it as it happens.

Belgrade Tower lit up at night beside the Sava, with a bridge glowing on the river beyondNew districtBelgrade WaterfrontFrom today to 2045: a new heart for the cityArtist’s impression of the new opera house under the dome of Hall 1, beside the marina and the Sava at sunsetPlannedA new opera & marinaThe fair’s Hall 1 becomes the opera; the Belgrade Eye risesArtist’s impression of the Old Railway Bridge reborn as a lit pedestrian and cycle crossing over the SavaWorks startedThe green bridgeThe old railway bridge reborn for walkersHotel Jugoslavija on Bulevar Nikole Tesle in New BelgradeWorks startedHotel JugoslavijaA Yugoslav legend on the Danube, reimaginedThe Old Sava Bridge lit up at night over the Sava, before work began on its replacementUnder wayThe new Sava bridgeA 420-metre arch over the Sava

On the water

Cycle the Sava quays to Ada Ciganlija in the late afternoon, swim in the lake, and stay for the moment the Ada Bridge lights up.

  1. 15 May – 15 August 2027EXPO 2027The world comes to Belgrade
  2. In depthNikola Tesla AirportA rebuilt terminal and a new hub for Southeast Europe
  3. Opened 2012The Ada BridgeA 200-metre pylon over the Sava

By rail to Budapest, Vienna and beyond

The new high-speed railway already runs from Beograd Centar to Novi Sad and Subotica, and through trains to Budapest are expected in December 2026. From Budapest Keleti, Europe opens up: Vienna, Munich, Zurich, Prague and the Alps.

A Srbijavoz Soko high-speed train at New Belgrade stationTravel guideBelgrade–Budapest by trainWhat’s open, journey times, stations, ticketsThe polished blue-and-gold carriages of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express at a platform, a pink lamp glowing in a windowIn depthULTIMATE Rail JourneysRocket to the Shinkansen, the Orient Express and the AlpsPetrovaradin Fortress above the Danube at Novi SadItinerariesFour rail routesBelgrade, Novi Sad, Budapest, Vienna
  1. WinterBy rail to the AlpsSt. Anton, Mayrhofen, Kitzbühel and more

History

History & heritage

How a Celtic fort on a ridge above two rivers became the White City: Romans and Slavs, Ottomans and Habsburgs, a royal capital and today’s buzzing city of art and music.

Belgrade Fortress above the meeting of the Sava and the DanubeHistory & heritageWhere the Sava meets the Danube: the story of the White CityThe White City, rebuilt again and againThe Museum of Contemporary Art at Ušće, New BelgradeThe back storyBelgrade Art, Architecture & CultureIn Belgrade the art doesn’t stay in the museum: it spills into…

Our advice

Kalemegdan at sunset

Start at Kalemegdan in the late afternoon, walk the fortress walls to the Victor monument as the sun sets over the confluence, then take Knez Mihailova down into the old town. History & heritage

The Balkans, with love

From the cafés of Dorćol to the swans on the Zemun Quay: the life Belgrade shares with the whole region.

Red umbrellas over the stalls of Dolac Market, ZagrebThe regionThe Balkans, with loveCafés, markets, the table and the welcomeKotor’s old town and the bay from the fortress walls, MontenegroThe long readThe Balkan SoulCafés, markets, the table and the wildSarma: cabbage rolls slow-cooked with smoked meat and bay leaves in a clay potThe regionFood & Drink in the BalkansThe shared table, guide by guide
  1. The regionWildlife & Nature in the BalkansEagles on Great War Island, swans at Zemun

The creative city

In Belgrade, writers, artists and musicians still live and debate in the heart of the city. Violinists on Knez Mihailova, bands playing beside the Danube, gallery openings and international festivals: discover Europe’s untapped creative capital.

Jelena Bibić, painting of the Zemun quay and old town seen from the DanubeFeatureCreative BelgradeEurope’s untapped creative capitalA tamburica band playing for diners in BelgradeFeatureBohemian BelgradeWhere artists still meetA splav, one of Belgrade’s floating river venues, moored on the Sava in 2013In depth: music & clubsBelgrade After DarkRiver clubs, new wave and technoDom omladine, Belgrade’s youth and culture centreMusicLive music & festivalsJazz, new music and concertsThe Yugoslav Film Archive on Uzun Mirkova StreetFilmFilm & festivalsThe film school, FEST and Beldocs
  1. ArtGalleries & artistsFree openings and Serbian masters

A night at the opera

Belgrade has two opera houses and a philharmonic to rival Vienna and Budapest: the grand National Theatre on Republic Square, the Madlenianum in old Zemun, and the Belgrade Philharmonic at the Kolarac.

The National Theatre in BelgradeRepublic SquareThe National TheatreOpera and ballet since 1869The Madlenianum Opera & Theatre on Glavna Street in ZemunZemunThe MadlenianumSoutheast Europe’s first private opera houseAn actor in red in a scene on the stage of Terazije TheatreClassical musicConcerts & the PhilharmonicThe Kolarac, BEMUS and chamber music

Our advice

A night of music

Book the Philharmonic’s big nights early, eat in Dorćol or Skadarlija before the concert, and finish with a glass of something local on Strahinjića bana. The back story

Beyond Belgrade

Serbia is so much more than its capital. A few hours from the city are mountains and ski slopes, a Habsburg fortress and wine towns, the great gorge of the Danube and a railway that climbs in a figure of eight.

The Gold Gondola over Lake Ribnica on ZlatiborMountain escapeZlatiborGold Gondola, spas, walks and pršutaSki slopes and chairlifts on Kopaonik in winter sunSki resortKopaonikSerbia’s biggest ski resortSki lifts and slopes at Brzeće, on KopaonikULTIMATE Ski ResortsBalkan snowKopaonik, Sarajevo’s Olympic mountains and MavrovoPines at the Banjska stena viewpoint above the Drina, Tara National ParkNational parkTaraForests and the Drina canyonGolubac Fortress on the Danube at the entrance to the Iron GatesDay trip · 1 hourNovi Sad & Sremski KarlovciFortress, old town and wine

By rail

Further still, the Šargan Eight, a heritage railway that climbs the hills in a figure of eight, and the wooden village of Drvengrad.

  1. Day trip · 2 hoursGolubac & the Iron GatesA fortress on the Danube gorge
  2. Day trip · 3 hoursŠargan Eight & DrvengradA heritage railway and a wooden village

Know your neighbourhoods

The walls and gate of Belgrade Fortress, with the Pobednik monument aboveNeighbourhood

Old Town & Kalemegdan

The fortress, Knez Mihailova, Republic Square and Skadarlija: Belgrade’s historic heart, best explored on foot.

Explore Old Town & Kalemegdan New apartment buildings of K-District in Dorćol, beside the DanubeNeighbourhood

Dorćol

Old streets running down to the Danube, full of cafés, bars and some of the city’s best small restaurants.

Explore Dorćol A tram passing the Belgrade Cooperative building in SavamalaNeighbourhood

Savamala

The old riverside quarter on the Sava, between the old town and the Belgrade Waterfront.

Explore Savamala The Temple of Saint Sava with the Karađorđe monument, BelgradeNeighbourhood

Vračar

Leafy and residential, home to the Temple of Saint Sava, Kalenić market and excellent neighbourhood restaurants.

Explore Vračar A round table laid with glassware in the dining room at S5 by AngieNeighbourhood

Zemun

A historic town on the Danube with its own character, cobbled streets, Gardoš Tower and riverside fish restaurants.

Explore Zemun New Belgrade across the river SavaNeighbourhood

New Belgrade

The modern city across the Sava: business hotels, shopping, the Museum of Contemporary Art and the river clubs.

Explore New Belgrade Belgrade Tower and the Belgrade Waterfront towers on the Sava in evening lightNeighbourhood

Belgrade Waterfront

Belgrade’s newest quarter on the Sava, with the Belgrade Tower, the St. Regis, Galerija and the Sava Promenade.

Explore Belgrade Waterfront

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